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Christmas Fair at HersonissosChristmas, usually a sedate occasion in Crete, arrived in a flash of fireworks in Chersonissos on the evening of December 10th.
Arriving at 5.30pm, it was a while before my little group of friends could muster the courage to plunge into the great mass of people gathered around stalls selling toys and crafts, food and cakes, hot chocolate and warm spicy wine.
Nothing here was at all expensive; neither the games, the rides, the home-made sweets nor any of the items brought to this festive market. All money raised, however, was earmarked for good causes, and among groups participating were "Ef-Zo Me Ton Karkino" (Living Well With Cancer), dedicated to providing practical and emotional support to cancer sufferers and their families. Ef-Zo also aim to raise awareness of issues faced by those living with these illnesses and to change attitudes about cancer; presenting positive images of people for whom life is still very much about living. Their motto is; Elpizw (hope), Stirizw (support), Ef-zw…which simply means to live well. They can be reached through www.efzo.gr.
The Gazette will undoubtedly be speaking with Gordana again, as she already has some interesting plans for early 2006! Contact Gordana Goreta on 28970 29254, or attend a regular Friday meeting. The association meets every Friday in the village of Koutouloufari, one km south of Hersonissos. LINKS:
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Choirs outside the central church sang the "kalanda",
or carols, from various areas in Greece, amplified for the whole
town to hear. It seemed that the town had all turned out to be
part of this occasion, the latest Christmas Bazaar coordinated
by the Vritomartis, the Association of Women of Hersonissos. 
Faces were being painted and my own sweet
son, apparently unable to wait for the next full moon, became a
wolf, and thereby showed us his true colours. Many kids waited
for their turn to be led through the crowds on a placid donkey,
or atop the miniature pony, which I first mistook for a key-ring.
Toffee apples, redolent of childhood winters past, and an irresistible
delight, were crunched. Tables along the central thoroughfare supported
many more seasonal delicacies, along with groups of people; families
and friends, giving this event the distinctive flavour of Greece,
where it is still possible for an entire village to eat 
and drink
together, marking an occasion in noisy good spirits. Many stall-owners,
mainly women, conversed with passers-by in accented Greek, allowing
only the most generalized guesses as to their countries of origin.
I was struck by the possibility that we were seeing a microcosm
of some Cretan future, bringing the best of Europe and beyond to
these distant shores in a celebration of diversity and belonging.
And yes, the souvlaki seller did a good trade, sending clouds of
mouthwateringly meaty smoke up from his grill. As my friend remarked,
what Greek party is complete without hot souvlakia? I also felt
glad to see some familiar faces, particularly Dave G. with his
family, now relocated to the coast after two unforgettable years
in the village of Avdou.
I caught up with the president of Vritomartis,
the multi-national association of women responsible for this Christmas
street party. She is the hugely energetic Gordana Goreta, a Croatian
whose English is as polished as her Greek. She speaks quickly and
to the point, giving the impression that she is used to facing
obstacles and to achieving her aims despite them. Our conversation
touched on the rationale behind Vritomartis, an organization now
numbering eighty full members from the area of Hersonissos, with
many others, men included, involved in helping and contributing
services. Gordana stated that the idea grew from the fact that
many people employed in the tourist industry work terribly hard
during the long season, but during winter tend to ‘go to sleep’,
finding little productive activity to occupy the colder months.
Raising awareness of the issues affecting 
women, as well as money
to support activities, is also a way to bring women together, sharing
ideas and energy. The organization is three quarters foreign-born
women, but the percentage of Greeks participating is growing, in
a country without a strong tradition of formally organized voluteerism.
