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Cretan Houses:
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Virginia
and Wolfgang live in a house that seems to be an embodiment of
the dream shared by many foreign settlers on the island of Crete.
It is approached by a country road that leads through wild countryside
and neat olive groves, turning and climbing as it snakes its way
from the north-east coast, near Malia, upward toward the village
of Kounali, five kilometres from Milatos. The Gazette begins an
occasional feature looking at remarkable homes, and the dreams
of those who live in them them.
The house belongs inside this landscape, it does not impede nor
impose upon the land. We are greeted by Wolfgang, who has a handshake
like the brakes on an Audi. Later revealing his background in engineering
these very German machines, he gives the impression of someone
not entirely of the machine age, but very gently attempting to
create a sense of order in a wild and chaotic environment. If he
is retired, how strong are the ones currently working? We are soon
introduced to Virginia, and begin to gain the sense of a home among
stone- bordered fields.
I had already begun to wonder at the history surrounding us. We
have passed the remains of a sizeable settlement, now lying in
clusters of squat, vaguely house-shaped piles of stone, ages old
and dark against the trees and long grasses which dominate these
hills. Yannis and I have touched upon the past of Crete many times,
and are now heading toward one kind of future, that is, the homes
built recently that do not recreate the past, nor do they betray
it. Our introduction to this particular incarnation of Cretan living
is via the garden, and our first meeting is in the little greenhouse.
It is a familiar scene in many villages to be greeted with handshakes,
kisses and the sight of a handful of freshly picked lettuce, or
whatever crop is in season.
The garden now is a pleasing collection of weeds and herbs,
flowers, many cacti (the designer was a cactus fan), and of course
trees, both fruit bearing and decorative. It would be wrong to
say that it is without shape, it has several shapes. Each side
of the house looks out upon a significantly different set of attractions,
some natural and some built. The stone walls that signify various ‘corners’ of
this environment lead the eye to new spaces, new areas of planned
space, beyond which lie the jagged, beautiful but inhospitable
mountains, the fields and goat-pastures of Lassithi. In every
direction within this garden, it seems, one is led to a corner
where something has been created. Limestone rocks frame winding
pathways throughout, offering a variety of areas in which to
stop and look around. Facing the whole property is the sea, always
changing. Wolfgang sees the garden as a work in progress.
It
is not a huge garden, but one in which every fold and bend offers
possibilities. It remains both full and open, providing shelter
and allowing the eyes to travel far. Wolfgang spoke of blending
plants he has introduced from abroad, visitors as he says, with
indigenous varieties. Personally, I began to imagine a playground
for a child delighting in entering some magical garden of spirits
and elves, a sort of mystery maze. Whatever, it does take work,
and both partners are working each day to realize their own vision
of how this space will provide beauty, and fresh vegetables, or
a happy combination of both. Features include a fine old limestone
kiln, the old-fashioned method for producing whitewash
from limestones, a reminder of former generations who have lived
here. They may now be smiling on the latest attempt to utilise
sparse resources in this hard countryside. 
From
the beginning, this house was planned as a self-contained environment.
So, as we might expect, a water container of 30 meters
provides for all the needs of the house and garden, with rainwater
properly stored and purified for drinking. Water is separated at
exit, and enough goes toward keeping the garden satisfied. Two
shredders exist and these, with storage areas, recycle household
and garden waste for the benefit of the whole garden. Power is
courtesy of four solar panels, actually not enough, and power needs
to be used sparingly. Electricity is supplemented by the occasional
use of a noisy generator when batteries are flat. It is only a
matter of time before the house connects to the grid, for better
and worse, but for now, a fridge, but not a freezer, and a washing
machine are running, alongside ample lighting and hot water.
The house is a treat. I loved the light and good use of limited
downstairs space, both welcoming and reflective of the personalities
who occupy it on a daily basis. I enjoyed an open, Cretan style
kitchen and sitting area, a fireplace in the right place and
enough room to chatter while chopping salad for lunch. This allows
those fortunate enough, like us, waiting to be fed, the opportunity
to offer advice on the correct use of herbs, which every cook
surely appreciates.
The walls feel thick and solid, like a stone structure, built with
the cold winter winds in mind. The house rises to three floors,
including an extra room planted on top, and is like the garden,
mixing village craft with modern lightness of texture to satisfying
effect. The garden and the house work harmoniously, both in themselves
and as a whole entity. Furnishing is simple and light. Open colours
reflect the natural light which pours through this multi-faceted
and intriguing building. The effect is modern (or Post-
Modern,
depending on your view), and Mediterranean. Good-sized balconies
offer air and seating on three sides of the house. Yannis and I
were given permission to look at each of the two and a half floors.
The top deck is used by Wolfgang as an office where he dreams his
dreams when not working in the garden or on the internet. Virginia
has her own workspace where she is at peace within the home she
has found, here in Lassithi. Neither of these two look like they
have stopped searching. It is a restlessness that I found refreshing
and admirable, as they have every intention of leading active lives
from this base in the hills. 
They met in Crete, Wolfgang and Virginia, and they are here to
stay.
Virginia
is definitely a people person, needing less the idea of a major
project, more the satisfaction that comes with putting people together
and seeing the results of a meeting of minds. She has energy and
spirit, both vital to her. After seven years living in Crete, she
speaks good Greek. And neither seeks the security
of any foreign ‘ghetto’. She would be
happy if her home, and its grounds, could be utilized by people,
Greek and foreign, as one centre among others, to exchange ideas,
to build friendships and support one another in creating a network
of creativity around the region. I felt sure, in speaking to her,
that this could be achieved. There will be an increasing need for
centres in Crete, where people congregate. This seems to be happening
now, as ideas of self-help and mutual support among groups in the
population take hold.
After so many years living in her first Cretan home, Chania, Virginia
had regrets about leaving friends and a settled life. But they
fell in love, and Wolf had a strong desire to find a special house
for them both. He did that. It happened to be at the other end
of the island, but homes like this are hard to find in Akrotiri.
Virginia looks on this place as a challenge too, clearly a beautiful
place, but also an opportunity to create a new network. Now, they
have no regrets. I would like to thank them both for letting us
into their lives for a few hours. The time passed too quickly and
we had to travel home.| Do you have a beautiful house in Crete? Would you like us to write about it ? Please contact us |
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